Conditions
Seasons
When each range is in condition. Pick a month to see which ranges are at their best; the rest dim out.
| Range | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Himalaya (Nepal) | Closed | Closed | Closed | Workable | Prime | Closed | Poor | Poor | Poor | Prime | Workable | Closed |
| Karakoram | Closed | Closed | Closed | Closed | Closed | Workable | Prime | Prime | Workable | Closed | Closed | Closed |
| Alps (summer rock) | Poor | Poor | Poor | Workable | Workable | Prime | Prime | Prime | Prime | Workable | Closed | Poor |
| Alps (winter mixed) | Prime | Prime | Prime | Workable | Poor | Closed | Closed | Closed | Closed | Workable | Poor | Prime |
| Andes (Cordillera Blanca) | Poor | Poor | Poor | Workable | Prime | Prime | Prime | Prime | Workable | Poor | Closed | Poor |
| Patagonia | Prime | Prime | Workable | Poor | Poor | Closed | Closed | Closed | Poor | Workable | Prime | Prime |
| Alaska Range | Closed | Closed | Closed | Workable | Prime | Prime | Prime | Workable | Poor | Closed | Closed | Closed |
| Scandinavian rock | Closed | Closed | Closed | Poor | Workable | Prime | Prime | Prime | Workable | Closed | Closed | Closed |
| Romsdalen (winter walls) | Workable | Prime | Prime | Prime | Workable | Closed | Closed | Closed | Closed | Closed | Poor | Workable |
| Caucasus | Closed | Closed | Closed | Poor | Workable | Prime | Prime | Prime | Workable | Poor | Closed | Closed |
| East Africa | Workable | Poor | Closed | Prime | Prime | Workable | Poor | Poor | Prime | Prime | Workable | Closed |
| Antarctica (Vinson) | Prime | Prime | Workable | Closed | Closed | Closed | Closed | Closed | Closed | Closed | Workable | Prime |
Notes by range
| Range | Window |
|---|---|
| Himalaya (Nepal) | Pre-monsoon April to May and post-monsoon October. The monsoon shuts June to September. |
| Karakoram | A single window, late June to mid-August. Nothing else is realistic. |
| Alps (summer rock) | Huts open roughly mid-June. July and August are the settled months; September is quieter and often clearer. |
| Alps (winter mixed) | February to April for frozen faces and consolidated snow. |
| Andes (Cordillera Blanca) | The dry season is May to September, with June to August the most settled. |
| Patagonia | Southern summer, November to March. Windows last two to four days. |
| Alaska Range | May to early July. Later than that the snow bridges rot and the glaciers open up. |
| Scandinavian rock | June to early September, with July most reliable. Midnight sun through mid-July. |
| Romsdalen (winter walls) | February to April. The face needs to be frozen or it sheds rock continuously. |
| Caucasus | Late June to early September. |
| East Africa | Two dry seasons: January to February and July to October, between the rains. |
| Antarctica (Vinson) | November to January only, when there is daylight and the runway is usable. |
What sets the window
In the Himalaya it is the monsoon. Moist air off the Bay of Bengal arrives in early June and does not clear until late September, burying the range in unstable snow. The two climbing seasons sit either side of it, and the pre-monsoon window is preferred on Everest because the jet stream lifts off the summit for a week or two in mid-May.
In the Karakoram, which sits north of the monsoon's reach, the constraint is instead the short period when the glaciers are passable and the high camps are not being scoured by wind.
In Patagonia it is pure wind. The Southern Ocean has no landmass to slow it at these latitudes, so the westerlies arrive on the icefield unobstructed. Forecasting improved enormously once high-resolution models became available, and the practical effect was that parties stopped making long sieges and started waiting in town for a two-day gap.
In Alaska the limit is the freeze. The West Buttress depends on snow bridges over crevasses on the Kahiltna, and by late July those are gone.